This blog is all about scraping beneath the surface of the city and uncovering the lesser-known places and stories that Bordeaux has to ...
The Invisible Bordeaux guide to the city's essential sights!
The resulting Essential Bordeaux page will remain permanently accessible in the top horizontal menu and all the sights which have been singled out can be easily located thanks to a dedicated Googlemap. Coming soon is a similar guide to the essential sights further afield in Gironde... more news as it comes in. In the meantime, enjoy this concise guide to the very best of what Bordeaux has to offer!
As well as being a marvellous place for a relaxing stroll, the Écosite du Bourgailh in Pessac is a case study in innovative regeneratio...
Le Bourgailh: Pessac's innovative green belt eco-site
Le Bourgailh is a 160-acre landscaped section of the green belt that runs between the Rocade ringroad and the source of the Peugue river, which was for centuries part of the lifeblood of Bordeaux but has long been driven underground nearer the city until it flows into the Garonne at the end of Cours Alsace-Lorraine.
For many years throughout the 20th century, this proud portrayal of statesman Léon Gambetta was the centrepiece of Allées de Tourny in cent...
Léon Gambetta monument: the centrepiece now missing from Allées de Tourny
The majestic work was positioned towards the middle of the promenade in 1905. The statue of Gambetta was executed by the sculptor Jules Dalou (1838-1902) while the figures at his feet were designed by Camille Lefèvre, a student of Dalou. The plinth which served as the backdrop to the various features was the work of local architect Jean-Camille Formigé (1845-1926). To pay for the monument, funds were raised nationwide by political supporters who sought to celebrate Léon Gambetta’s legacy.
A plaque on the wall of the US Consulate in Bordeaux commemorates the legacy of Thomas Jefferson, the third president of the United States...
Wine-lover Thomas Jefferson’s five days in Bordeaux
Jefferson first arrived in Europe in 1784 to negotiate treaties alongside Benjamin Franklin who he replaced as Ambassador to France in May 1785 with the dual aim of developing trade between the two countries and restoring America’s image in France. He soon worked his way into Parisian society but also sought to travel, visiting England, the Netherlands, Italy and provincial France.
Fifteen kilometres to the north-west of Bordeaux lies Saint-Aubin-de-Médoc. The quiet town is more of a place to live than a place to ...
A stroll in Saint-Aubin-de-Médoc
Fifteen kilometres to the north-west of Bordeaux lies Saint-Aubin-de-Médoc. The quiet town is more of a place to live than a place to visit, but the central square includes a number of buildings with tales to tell.
Up until the French Revolution, Saint-Aubin was mainly pastoral land coupled with a few vineyards. When a prominent land-owner fled the country after the Revolution, his extensive property reverted to the town and was sold on to individual owners, mainly farmers and foresters. By the time of the Second World War, the population numbered 500, many of whom were employed by the explosives factory in nearby Saint-Médard-en-Jalles (which still exists today).
On Rue du Palais-Gallien, just metres from the city-centre hub that is Place Gambetta, the seemingly timeless “P oste – Télégraphe – Télé...
Introducing the former Hôtel des Postes (and seminary, factory, hostel, mint and radio studio)
There are in fact a number twists to the story of the building, which goes back to 1747 when a Lazariste seminary (la Congrégation des prêtres du Clergé, founded in 1643) was transferred from premises behind Saint-Siméon to this property, acquired by the religious community in 1739. Previous structures on this spot had included a church (in the 12th century) and a hospital (from the 13th century onwards).
To the side of a main road that runs parallel to the Garonne, connecting Bordeaux with the Médoc wine-growing territory, a 19th-century p...
Saint-Jean-des-Palus chapel: deteriorating by the day
The chapel was built in 1872 to the designs of architect Louis Garros to serve a congregation made up of people who lived in the surrounding so-called “palus” riverside quarters, where the agricultural parcels of land were frequently flooded by water from the Garonne. The then-owners of the nearby Château de Grattequina (also designed by Louis Garros), the Gièse family, were behind the original idea to create what they hoped would become a bona fide parish church.
Stade Chaban-Delmas is one of a dying breed: a top-flight sports stadium located in the heart of a city. For some time its future was un...
Stade Chaban-Delmas: nearing the end of this footballing life
The time has come for another hand-picked selection of faded hand-painted adverts and signs, more commonly referred to ...
Ghost signs in and around Bordeaux, chapter 3
The Moulin de Lansac is a restored windmill that is perched on a 69-metre-high mound known as Le Grand Puy, in Lansac, a few kilometres t...
Moulin de Lansac: making the millstones turn again!
Little is known about the history of the windmill except that it and its unrestored twin were definitely in operation in the 19th century… but may even reportedly date back as far as 1598, not long after the first millers began operating in Gironde (which was in 1556 according to a Gironde departmental archives document). The year 1820 is prominently inscribed on one stone but it is thought that this was added during a rebuilding phase.
By one of the entrances to what is now the Hangar 14 conference centre on the Garonne riverfront, a 2002 plaque commemorates one ...
Operation Frankton: the Cockleshell Heroes and their 1942 suicide raid
This December 1942 commando raid aimed to find an innovative means of thwarting German war efforts. It focused on the so-called “blockade runner” supply ships which would dock in Bordeaux with their freight of vegetable and animal oils, and raw materials including crude rubber from the Far East.
Just outside Biganos, off the main road between Bordeaux and Arcachon, lies the Moulin de la Cassadotte, home to one of three Girondin pr...
Moulin de la Cassadotte: the flour mill turned caviar farm
The mill was originally completed in 1834 and was the property of one Mr Courbin, a man from nearby Mios. His mill sought to capitalise on the current of the lively Lacanau stream, which flows into the river Leyre (which in turn flows into the waters of the Bassin d’Arcachon). The water mill ground out flour for more than a hundred years, ceasing production after the Second World War, by which time it could not compete with large-scale mills such as the Grand Moulins establishment in Bordeaux.
This unusual statue, “ le matelot ” (the seaman), stands atop a roof in the centre of the seaside resort of Lacanau-Océan, welcoming visi...
Le Matelot: an open-arm welcome to Lacanau-Océan
The work is a modern-day take on a statue which was placed there by Jean-Émile Lacaze, the first owner of the accompanying villa which was one of the first to be built in the town upon its creation in 1906. Indeed, Lacanau-Océan is a relatively young town, founded as the result of the extension beyond the inland town of Lacanau of the railway line from Bordeaux (loyal readers will be familiar with the subject, as the route is now a popular cycle path).
All of the subjects covered by Invisible Bordeaux over the past twelve months have been an absolute pleasure to compile and research. I...
2012 in review: the year’s most rewarding Invisible Bordeaux items
2012 is drawing to a close so the time has come to take stock of the past twelve months and finish off with a couple of items looking bac...
2012 in review: the year’s most popular Invisible Bordeaux items
|| PART OF A TWIN FEATURE PUBLISHED WITH INVISIBLE PARIS! || One of the most influential (and yet often overlooked) sons of the Bord...
Max Linder: the overlooked silent movie star from Saint-Loubès
One of the most influential (and yet often overlooked) sons of the Bordeaux region is Max Linder, the successful actor, director, screenwriter, producer and comedian of the silent film era.
The birthplace of Gabriel Leuvielle/Max Linder. |
Come July 1903, the then 19-year-old actor won the Conservatoire’s awards for first prize in comedy and second prize in tragedy. His acting career had already been gaining momentum with contract performances at the Théâtre des Arts. Gabriel’s father went on to forbid him from using the name Leuvielle, so his surname momentarily switched to Lacerda. The budding actor soon realised this stage name lacked clout. In 1904, he saw a better option staring at him from a bootmaker's shopfront. From then on, he would trade as Max Linder.
Also that year, a fellow actor, Charles le Bargy of the Comédie-Française, urged Linder to audition for the Paris Conservatoire. Although rejected on three occasions, Linder relocated to Paris and worked his way into the theatre circuit there before appearing, from 1905 onwards, in a number of short comedy films for Pathé, many of which were made at studios in Montreuil that still stand today (as documented by Invisible Paris). When Pathé’s slapstick star René Gréhan left the company, Linder took over his role, retaining Gréhan’s high-society dandy-ish demeanour. Linder’s recurring character became aptly known as “Max”: a wealthy figure who would frequently get into trouble because of his taste for womanising.
Max Linder with (left) Charles Chaplin. |
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"To the one and only Max, "The Professor". From his disciple, Charlie Chaplin. May 12th 1917." |
That year, Linder moved to the United States, committed to making twelve short features for the Essanay Film Manufacturing Company, whose Charlie Chaplin – who described himself as a "disciple" to Linder and went on to become a close friend – had recently moved on to Mutual Film. The first two American-made Max films were unsuccessful, while the third, Max and his Taxi, fared a little better. Essanay were struggling financially though and, with no turnaround in sight, the remaining films were cancelled.
Suffering from ill health and homesickness, Linder returned to France, acquiring the Kosmorama movie theatre in Paris. It became the Max Linder Panorama, and is also documented by Invisible Paris in the other part of this twin feature. He appeared to have been profoundly affected by the Great War and it would be some time before he began making films again. In 1921, Linder decided to have a second attempt at breaking Hollywood and formed his own production company there.
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A still from Seven Years Bad Luck (source: Silent Volume). |
His first production, Seven Years Bad Luck, became regarded as his career masterpiece and included a famous scene where Max stands before an empty mirror frame while a servant stands behind the frame mimicking his gestures. Although not the first instance of the "human mirror" gag, it was particularly well-executed and may have inspired the similar scene in the Marx Brothers' Duck Soup. Seven Years was followed by Be My Wife. A third film, The Three Must-Get-Theres, which pastiched The Three Musketeers, was also a moderate success but Linder retreated to France where he made some more “serious” films (Au Secours and Le Roi du Cirque) before neurasthenia (a mix of depression and post-traumatic stress) began getting the better of him.
In 1923, he married the 18-year-old Hélène "Ninette" Peters and together they had a daughter, Maud, born in 1924. The Max Linder story came to an abrupt end though on October 31st 1925 in a Paris hotel room when Max killed his wife before taking his own life. This tragic finale is detailed over at Invisible Paris.
Throughout both the glory years and the troubled years, Max Linder never forgot his roots, regularly returning to his hometown (the 1911 film Max en Convalescence was even set there!) and holidaying in Arcachon. It is reported that the express train from Paris to Bordeaux would stop especially at the tiny station in Saint-Loubès so that the star could alight in his hometown. His final resting place is the Leuvielle family vault in the town's cemetery, just a few hundred metres away from the house where he was born. Although his stage name does not feature on the tombstone, lasting tributes throughout the small town include a community hall, a secondary school and a street which all bear his name.
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A still from "Max en Convalescence" |
In the meantime, recent years have been fruitful for Max Linder followers. A DVD box-set (containing ten films, two documentaries and a book) was released by Éditions

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The haven of tranquility that is Place Georges de Porto-Riche is one of the city’s best-kept secrets, despite being a stone’s throw away...
Place Georges de Porto-Riche: the secret square
The haven of tranquility that is Place Georges de Porto-Riche is one of the city’s best-kept secrets, despite being a stone’s throw away from the hives of activity that are Rue Saint-Catherine and the Grand-Théâtre.
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Georges de Porto-Riche (source). |
The square is named after a playwright and novelist who was born in Bordeaux in 1849 and spent much of his life in Paris. After a short period working there as a bank clerk, his initial breakthrough came aged just 20 when his first historical dramas were performed at theatres in the capital. Around the same time, his first collections of poetry were also published and well-received.
Looking at the picture on the left, readers familiar with Bordeaux will have recognised the Colonne des Girondins , which stands at the w...
1907 International Maritime Fair: when Bordeaux was the maritime capital of the world

The six-month extravaganza was the brainchild of the Ligue Maritime Française, an institution which aimed to develop and promote the nation’s military and merchant shipping industry. The decision was made to open up the exhibition to other countries, many of whom accepted the invitation to take part in the event which was also an excellent opportunity to commemorate the centenary of steam-powered shipping. From there the event developed further still to showcase other wide-ranging sectors of activity as well as being the venue for 50 trade conferences.
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